{"id":2723022,"date":"2023-05-03T13:00:45","date_gmt":"2023-05-03T06:00:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/kill2.mmmaq.com/_res_0\/?p=2723022"},"modified":"2025-12-17T17:46:38","modified_gmt":"2025-12-17T10:46:38","slug":"noi-that-hermes-tuan-le-thiet-ke-milan-2023","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/kill2.mmmaq.com/_res_0\/noi-that-hermes-tuan-le-thiet-ke-milan-2023\/","title":{"rendered":"N\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt c\u1ee7a Herm\u00e8s \u1edf Tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 Thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Milan 2023"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Kh\u00f4ng gian tr\u00ecnh l\u00e0ng n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t m\u1edbi c\u1ee7a Herm\u00e8s \u1edf Tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 Thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Milan 2023<\/p><\/div>\n

S\u1ee9c m\u1ea1nh t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng \u0111i\u1ec1u c\u01a1 b\u1ea3n<\/strong><\/h2>\n

V\u1ebb \u0111\u1eb9p lu\u00f4n c\u00f3 nhi\u1ec1u m\u1eb7t, t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1edbi nh\u1eefng h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n nh\u1ea5t ho\u1eb7c ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p nh\u1ea5t. Thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng t\u1ea1o t\u00e1c n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t Herm\u00e8s, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n t\u1ea1i Tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 Thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Milan 2023, l\u1ea5y c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb phong c\u00e1ch c\u1ed5 x\u01b0a, s\u1ee9c s\u1ed1ng t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean v\u00e0 ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n.<\/p>\n

C\u1ea3nh quan c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 ki\u1ec7n d\u01b0\u1eddng nh\u01b0 kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 chi ti\u1ebft th\u1eeba nh\u1edd b\u1ed9 khung h\u00ecnh h\u1ecdc c\u1ea5u t\u1ea1o t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng thanh s\u1eaft v\u00e0 b\u00ea t\u00f4ng. Kh\u00f4ng gian l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p c\u1ee7a m\u1ea1ng l\u01b0\u1edbi v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1eb3ng, t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac \u0111\u1ed9t ph\u00e1 v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7y m\u1ea1nh m\u1ebd.<\/p>\n

Trong c\u00e1c m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ed3 n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y \u2013 nh\u01b0 chi\u1ebfc gh\u1ebf b\u00e0nh b\u1eb1ng da v\u00e0 g\u1ed7, m\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc gh\u1ebf kh\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m m\u1edbi t\u1eeb thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930, hay chi\u1ebfc gh\u1ebf sofa c\u00f3 ki\u1ec3u d\u00e1ng v\u01b0\u1ee3t th\u1eddi gian – s\u1ee9c m\u1ea1nh v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng c\u0169ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ed9c l\u1ed9 qua vi\u1ec7c lo\u1ea1i b\u1ecf, gi\u1ea3m thi\u1ec3u c\u00e1c chi ti\u1ebft th\u1eeba th\u00e3i.<\/p>\n

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K\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt \u0111i\u00eau luy\u1ec7n, v\u1eadt li\u1ec7u th\u01b0\u1ee3ng h\u1ea1ng<\/h2>\n

B\u00ed quy\u1ebft ch\u1ebf t\u00e1c b\u1ed7ng c\u00f3 h\u00ecnh h\u00e0i, t\u1ea1o n\u00ean t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 xu\u1ea5t ch\u00fang: C\u00e1c m\u1eabu \u0111\u00e8n t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c t\u1ea1o h\u00ecnh b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1ch th\u1ed5i thu\u1ef7 tinh, c\u00e1c lo\u1ea1i gh\u1ebf \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n v\u00e0 tinh t\u1ebf \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ecdc b\u1eb1ng ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u00e1p truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, th\u1ea3m v\u1edbi ho\u1ea1 ti\u1ebft sinh \u0111\u1ed9ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00eau tay \u1edf tr\u00ecnh \u0111\u1ed9 b\u1eadc th\u1ea7y. R\u1ea5t d\u1ec5 nh\u1eadn th\u1ea5y qu\u00e1 tr\u00ecnh t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm c\u00e1c v\u1eadt li\u1ec7u h\u1eefu c\u01a1 trong c\u00e1ch s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u1ed3ng, k\u00ednh, g\u1ed7 v\u00e0 da \u0111\u1eb7t c\u1ea1nh nhau ho\u1eb7c trong nh\u1eefng d\u1ea1ng th\u1ee9c c\u01a1 b\u1ea3n nh\u1ea5t.<\/p>\n

Nh\u1eefng gam m\u00e0u l\u1eb7ng l\u00e0m ti\u1ec1n \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ec3 n\u00eau b\u1eadt c\u00e1c ho\u1ea1 ti\u1ebft t\u00f4n vinh di s\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a Nh\u00e0 ch\u1ebf t\u00e1c. G\u1ee3i \u00fd v\u1ec1 b\u1ed9 m\u00f4n c\u01b0\u1ee1i ng\u1ef1a xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n tr\u00ean b\u1ed9 \u0111\u0129a \u0103n s\u00e1ng b\u1eb1ng s\u1ee9 v\u1edbi c\u00e1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t t\u01b0\u01a1i vui, tr\u00ean th\u1ea3m v\u00e0 ch\u0103n m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ea7y s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o.<\/p>\n

\u0110\u00e2y ch\u00ednh l\u00e0 tinh tu\u00fd c\u1ee7a ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf, l\u1ea5y c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb v\u1eadt li\u1ec7u v\u00e0 th\u00f4ng qua b\u00ed quy\u1ebft chuy\u00ean m\u00f4n t\u1ea1o ra nh\u1eefng v\u1eadt d\u1ee5ng \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ea1i, b\u1ec1n b\u1ec9 v\u00e0 ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng \u0111\u1eb9p h\u01a1n theo th\u1eddi gian.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

Nh\u1eefng thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u1ed9i th\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ea7y t\u00ednh ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt Herm\u00e8s ra m\u1eaft t\u1ea1i\u00a0Tu\u1ea7n l\u1ec5 Thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Milan 2023<\/h2>\n

Gh\u1ebf b\u00e0nh Ancelle d’Herm\u00e8s<\/h3>\n

\u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u00e0o n\u1eb7n b\u1edfi b\u00e0n tay nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0110an M\u1ea1ch Cecilie Manz, gh\u1ebf b\u00e0nh Ancelle d’Herm\u00e8s ch\u00e2n ph\u01b0\u01a1ng m\u00e0 l\u00f4i cu\u1ed1n: khung g\u1ed7 c\u1ee9ng k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi m\u1ed9t t\u1ea5m da t\u1ea1o n\u00ean ch\u1ed7 ng\u1ed3i nh\u1eb9 nh\u00e0ng v\u00e0 thanh l\u1ecbch. K\u1ebf th\u1eeba truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng B\u1eafc \u00c2u k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p n\u00e9t kho\u1ebb kho\u1eafn v\u1edbi ch\u1ee7 ngh\u0129a t\u1ed1i gi\u1ea3n, m\u1eabu gh\u1ebf b\u00e0nh s\u1edf h\u1eefu di\u1ec7n m\u1ea1o thanh l\u1ecbch, c\u1ea5u t\u1ee9 r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

Th\u1ea3m Cord\u00e9lie \u2014 ar\u00e7on<\/h3>\n

Ng\u1ef1a tay quay, c\u1ed9t r\u00e0o, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111ua v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7u ng\u1ef1a hi\u1ec7n l\u00ean tr\u00ean nh\u1eefng t\u1ea5m th\u1ea3m m\u1edbi c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Pierre Charpin. Trong tr\u00f2 ch\u01a1i c\u1ee7a \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t \u0111\u1ed3 h\u1ecda v\u00e0 m\u00e0u s\u1eafc mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng, t\u1ea5m th\u1ea3m ph\u00f4 b\u00e0y k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt d\u1ec7t Cord\u00e9lie, t\u1ea1o hi\u1ec7u \u1ee9ng v\u1eadt li\u1ec7u th\u00f4ng qua vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u1eb7t ch\u00ednh x\u00e1c s\u1ee3i ch\u1ec9 b\u00f4ng th\u00eau tr\u00ean n\u1ec1n v\u1ea3i lanh. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c th\u00eau ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng, t\u00e1c ph\u1ea9m d\u1ec7t may mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng n\u00e0y ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 t\u1ea1i Herm\u00e8s.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

Gh\u1ebf sofa Contour d’Herm\u00e8s<\/h3>\n

Mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng, v\u01b0\u1ee3t th\u1eddi gian v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7y m\u1eddi g\u1ecdi, Contour d’Herm\u00e8s l\u00e0 m\u1eabu gh\u1ebf sofa n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt v\u1edbi ch\u1ea5t li\u1ec7u v\u1ea3i. Gh\u1ebf \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ecdc v\u1ea3i len v\u00e0 toan b\u00f4ng d\u00e0y, mang nh\u1eefng g\u1ee3i nh\u1eafc k\u00edn \u0111\u00e1o v\u1ec1 di s\u1ea3n ch\u1ebf t\u00e1c da th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng c\u1ee7a Herm\u00e8s. C\u00e1c h\u00e0ng n\u00fat b\u1ea5m trang tr\u00ed \u0111\u1ec7m l\u01b0ng v\u00e0 ph\u1ea7n vi\u1ec1n trang tr\u00ed t\u00f4 \u0111\u1eadm \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t l\u00e0m b\u1eb1ng da c\u1ee7a gh\u1ebf, ch\u00e2n gh\u1ebf c\u0169ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ecdc da v\u00e0 ch\u1ea3i b\u00f3ng. M\u1ed9t chi\u1ebfc sofa thu\u1ea7n khi\u1ebft nh\u01b0 m\u1ecdi chi\u1ebfc sofa t\u1ef1 c\u1ed5 ch\u00ed kim.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

\u0110\u00e8n Souffle d\u2019Herm\u00e8s<\/h3>\n

Nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u00e8n Souffle d\u2019Herm\u00e8s c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Ph\u1ea7n Lan Harri Koskinen kh\u01a1i g\u1ee3i suy ng\u1eabm. Khai th\u00e1c thu\u1ed9c t\u00ednh t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean c\u1ee7a th\u1ee7y tinh, ch\u00fang lu\u00f4n g\u00e2y h\u1ee9ng th\u00fa d\u00f9 b\u1eadt hay t\u1eaft. Ch\u00fang th\u1ef1c ti\u1ec5n, t\u1ea1o \u1ea5n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng quen thu\u1ed9c v\u00e0 trong su\u1ed1t, \u0111\u1ea1i di\u1ec7n cho s\u1ef1 gi\u1ea3n d\u1ecb v\u00e0 c\u1ee9ng c\u00e1p. Mang m\u00e0u nho \u0111en, d\u01b0\u01a1ng x\u1ec9 hay cam ch\u00e1y, nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u00e8n n\u00e0y ph\u1ea3n chi\u1ebfu t\u00e0i ngh\u1ec7 c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c ngh\u1ec7 nh\u00e2n th\u1ed5i th\u1ee7y tinh.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

H\u1ed9p c\u00f3 n\u1eafp v\u00f2m Patine d\u2019Herm\u00e8s<\/h3>\n

D\u00f2ng v\u1eadt d\u1ee5ng n\u00e0y ra \u0111\u1eddi t\u1eeb khao kh\u00e1t k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p da c\u00f9ng \u0111\u1ed3ng thau trong c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t s\u1ea3n ph\u1ea9m – gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 nh\u1eefng b\u1ed9 y\u00ean ng\u1ef1a nguy\u00ean b\u1ea3n c\u1ee7a Nh\u00e0 ch\u1ebf t\u00e1c. V\u1edbi d\u1ea1ng th\u1ee9c \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n, v\u1eadt li\u1ec7u nguy\u00ean th\u1ee7y v\u00e0 t\u1ef1 nhi\u00ean, nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc h\u1ed9p b\u1eaft m\u1eaft v\u00e0 to\u1ea3 ra s\u1ee9c m\u1ea1nh n\u1ed9i t\u1ea1i kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 nh\u1ea7m l\u1eabn. L\u1edbp v\u00e2n s\u00e1ng, s\u1ea7n s\u00f9i c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ed3ng thau l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t b\u00ed quy\u1ebft t\u1eeb Nh\u1eadt B\u1ea3n. S\u1eafc sen c\u1ea1n \u0111\u1ecf t\u1ea1o t\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u1ea3n n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt tr\u00ean n\u1eafp da hai t\u00f4ng m\u00e0u c\u1ee7a chi\u1ebfc h\u1ed9p c\u00f3 b\u1ea3n l\u1ec1.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

Gh\u1ebf Conservatoire<\/h3>\n

Chi\u1ebfc gh\u1ebf g\u00f3c c\u1ea1nh, mang ki\u1ec3u d\u00e1ng h\u00ecnh h\u1ecdc, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ecdc da Herm\u00e8s ra \u0111\u1eddi v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1930, \u0111\u00e3 truy\u1ec1n c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng cho Jasper Morrison t\u00e1i hi\u1ec7n l\u1ea1i ch\u00ednh thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u00e0y b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1i nh\u00ecn d\u1ecbu d\u00e0ng. V\u1edbi nh\u1eefng s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i nh\u01b0 ch\u00e2n gh\u1ebf thon th\u1ea3 h\u01a1n v\u00e0 t\u1ef7 l\u1ec7 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111i\u1ec1u ch\u1ec9nh, nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u00e3 mang \u0111\u1ebfn cho chi\u1ebfc gh\u1ebf m\u1ed9t di\u1ec7n m\u1ea1o hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ea1i. M\u1eb7t gh\u1ebf v\u00e0 t\u1ef1a l\u01b0ng b\u1ecdc da \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u00e0m l\u1ea1i ch\u00ednh x\u00e1c, l\u1edbp da b\u00f3ng b\u1ea9y \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh di s\u1ea3n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t d\u00e0nh ri\u00eang cho t\u1ea1o t\u00e1c n\u00e0y. T\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 t\u1ea1o n\u00ean s\u1ef1 k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p gi\u1eefa l\u1ecbch s\u1eed, b\u00ed quy\u1ebft ch\u1ebf t\u00e1c v\u00e0 tri\u1ebft l\u00fd \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng \u0111\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

D\u1ee5ng c\u1ee5 \u0103n u\u1ed1ng b\u1eb1ng s\u1ee9 Saut Herm\u00e8s<\/h3>\n

B\u1eefa s\u00e1ng – b\u1eefa \u0103n vui v\u1ebb v\u00e0 th\u01b0 th\u00e1i – gi\u1edd \u0111\u00e2y \u0111\u00e3 c\u00f3 b\u1ed9 \u0111\u0129a s\u1ee9 ri\u00eang. V\u1edbi nh\u1eefng n\u00e9t v\u1ebd b\u1eb1ng b\u00fat l\u00f4ng t\u01b0\u01a1i m\u1edbi v\u00e0 ng\u1eabu h\u1ee9ng, ho\u1ea1 s\u0129 Ph\u00e1p Jochen Gerner trang tr\u00ed nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u0111\u0129a n\u00e0y b\u1eb1ng m\u00f4-t\u00edp l\u1ea5y c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb cu\u1ed9c thi c\u01b0\u1ee1i ng\u1ef1a Saut Herm\u00e8s. Th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi k\u1ef5 m\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u00f4 t\u1ea3 b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c t\u00f4ng m\u00e0u nh\u1eb9 nh\u00e0ng, t\u1ea1o ra b\u1ed9 d\u1ee5ng c\u1ee5 \u0103n u\u1ed1ng vui t\u01b0\u01a1i v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ea7y m\u00e0u s\u1eafc.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

Ch\u0103n sofa Casaqu\u2019\u00e9chiquier<\/h3>\n

L\u1ea5y c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng t\u1eeb kho l\u01b0u tr\u1eef c\u1ee7a th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u, hoa v\u0103n tr\u00ean t\u1ea5m ch\u0103n len cashmere t\u00e1i hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ed3 l\u1ee5a c\u1ee7a ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111ua ng\u1ef1a, th\u00eau l\u1ea1i v\u1edbi nhau b\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c s\u1ee3i len t\u01b0\u01a1ng ph\u1ea3n m\u00e0u s\u1eafc, t\u1ea1o th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t m\u1eabu hoa v\u0103n \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o. Ch\u00fang \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c v\u1eaft v\u00e0 d\u1ec7t b\u1eb1ng tay, s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng nhi\u1ec1u m\u00e1y d\u1ec7t ho\u1eb7c k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt ikat t\u00f9y m\u1eabu. S\u1ef1 kh\u00e9o l\u00e9o v\u00e0 t\u00e0i n\u0103ng c\u1ee7a th\u1ee3 th\u1ee7 c\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c k\u1ebft h\u1ee3p v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 tinh t\u1ebf c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1ed3 h\u1ecda, k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt l\u1eafp r\u00e1p v\u00e0 m\u00e0u s\u1eafc n\u1ed5i b\u1eadt.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

 <\/p>\n

T\u1ea1p ch\u00ed th\u1eddi trang Harper\u2019s Bazaar Vi\u1ec7t Nam<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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