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Clare Waight Keller – Gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o \u0111\u01b0\u01a1ng nhi\u1ec7m c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 Givenchy \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 cao v\u1ec1 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng v\u00e0 t\u01b0 duy s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n Tuy nhi\u00ean, x\u00e9t theo m\u1eb7t b\u1eb1ng chung, t\u1ec9 l\u1ec7 ph\u1ea7n tr\u0103m n\u1eef gi\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ed5 nhi\u1ec7m gi\u1eef vai tr\u00f2 ch\u1ee7 ch\u1ed1t t\u1ea1i c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t danh gi\u00e1 v\u1eabn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c duy tr\u00ec \u1edf m\u1ed9t con s\u1ed1 kh\u00e1 khi\u00eam t\u1ed1n. T\u1ea1i Paris, m\u1ed7i m\u00f9a th\u1eddi trang v\u1edbi h\u01a1n 90 show di\u1ec5n,\u00a0 x\u1ea5p x\u1ec9 kho\u1ea3ng 30 th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u c\u00f3 Gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o l\u00e0 n\u1eef. T\u1ec9 l\u1ec7 n\u00e0y c\u00f2n th\u1ea5p h\u01a1n t\u1ea1i Milan v\u1edbi con s\u1ed1 31%. \u1ede l\u00e3nh v\u1ef1c kinh doanh, Ph\u00f3 ch\u1ee7 t\u1ecbch \u0111i\u1ec1u h\u00e0nh\u00a0Delphine Arnault t\u1ea1i t\u1eadp \u0111o\u00e0n LVMH l\u00e0 th\u00e0nh vi\u00ean n\u1eef duy nh\u1ea5t trong t\u1eadp th\u1ec3 nh\u1eefng nh\u00e2n vi\u00ean c\u1ea5p cao \u0111a ph\u1ea7n l\u00e0 nam gi\u1edbi.<\/p>\n L\u00ed do n\u00e0o m\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c sinh ra d\u00e0nh ri\u00eang cho n\u1eef gi\u1edbi l\u1ea1i ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n b\u1ecb th\u1ed1ng tr\u1ecb b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi mang nhi\u1ec5m s\u1eafc th\u1ec3 XY? B\u00ean c\u1ea1nh \u0111\u00f3, \u0111i\u1ec1u kh\u00f3 l\u00ed gi\u1ea3i r\u1eb1ng t\u1ea1i h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c tr\u01b0\u1eddng chuy\u00ean ng\u00e0nh v\u1ec1 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf v\u00e0 ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt \u2013 v\u00ed d\u1ee5 nh\u01b0 tr\u01b0\u1eddng Central Saint Martins, c\u00e1i n\u00f4i thai sinh r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u nh\u1eefng t\u00ean tu\u1ed5i l\u1eebng danh c\u1ee7a l\u00e0ng th\u1eddi trang \u2013 l\u1ea1i c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ebfn 74% sinh vi\u00ean l\u00e0 n\u1eef gi\u1edbi, t\u1ea1i h\u1ecdc vi\u1ec7n\u00a0New York\u2019s Fashion Institute c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ebfn 85% sinh vi\u00ean n\u1eef. Song khi t\u1ed1t nghi\u1ec7p, l\u1ea1i r\u1ea5t \u00edt nh\u1eefng sinh vi\u00ean n\u1eef \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea5t nh\u1eafc v\u00e0o c\u00e1c v\u1ecb tr\u00ed thi\u1ebft y\u1ebfu trong nh\u1eefng c\u00f4ng ty, th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea7u ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p th\u1eddi trang?<\/p>\n “Ng\u00e0nh th\u1eddi trang lu\u00f4n \u0111\u1eb7t ra kh\u00f4ng \u00edt s\u1ef1 \u0111\u00f2i h\u1ecfi v\u00e0 \u00e1p l\u1ef1c. Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef lu\u00f4n ph\u1ea3i l\u1ef1a ch\u1ecdn gi\u1eefa cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng gia \u0111\u00ecnh v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 nghi\u1ec7p”<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n \u2013 Nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebf k\u1ebf Julie de Libran<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n Nhi\u1ec1u th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u th\u1eddi trang h\u00e0ng \u0111\u1ea7u th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c kh\u1edfi ph\u00e1t t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u1eef gi\u1edbi nh\u01b0ng s\u1ef1 th\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u1ebfn v\u1edbi c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ti\u1ebfp qu\u1ea3n b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng h\u1eadu du\u1ec7 l\u00e0 nam gi\u1edbi. Ngo\u00e0i Chanel \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o n\u00ean s\u1ef1 b\u00f9ng ph\u00e1t t\u1eeb nh\u1eefng th\u1eadp ni\u00ean 20-30, r\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t nh\u01b0\u00a0Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, Nina Ricci v\u00e0 Marie-Louise Carven ph\u1ea3i m\u1ea5t nhi\u1ec1u th\u1eadp ni\u00ean \u0111\u1ec3 v\u1ef1c d\u1eady l\u1ea1i t\u00ean tu\u1ed5i khi vai tr\u00f2 Gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e2n b\u1ed5 cho c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf nam gi\u1edbi.<\/p>\n Nh\u01b0 nh\u00e0 s\u1eed h\u1ecdc th\u1eddi trang v\u00e0 t\u00e1c gi\u1ea3 E P Cutler gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch: “Ban \u0111\u1ea7u, c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t ch\u00fat k\u1ef3 qu\u1eb7c khi \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng l\u00e0m nh\u1eefng c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c may m\u1eb7c cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef. S\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ee5ng ch\u1ea1m c\u01a1 th\u1ec3 v\u00e0 nh\u00ecn ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef trong tr\u1ea1ng th\u00e1i kho\u1ea3 th\u00e2n \u0111\u00e3 nh\u1eadn l\u1ea5y kh\u00f4ng \u00edt s\u1ef1 b\u1ea5t \u0111\u1ed3ng trong x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i. Nh\u01b0ng khi Ho\u00e0ng h\u1eadu Eug\u00e9nie, phu nh\u00e2n c\u1ee7a vua Napoleon III, tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh ng\u01b0\u1eddi h\u00e2m m\u1ed9 Charles Frederick Worth v\u00e0o kho\u1ea3ng n\u0103m 1860, vi\u1ec7c nam gi\u1edbi may m\u1eb7c qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh \u0111i\u1ec1u ch\u1ea5p nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c.<\/p>\n S\u1ef1 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a Charles Frederick Worth, bi\u1ec3u th\u1ecb m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i trong suy ngh\u0129 cho c\u1ea3 ng\u01b0\u1eddi may l\u1eabn ng\u01b0\u1eddi m\u1eb7c.\u00a0V\u00e0i n\u0103m sau, c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf th\u1eddi trang – nh\u01b0 ch\u00fang ta hi\u1ec3u thu\u1eadt ng\u1eef ng\u00e0y nay – b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u n\u1ed5i l\u00ean r\u1ea7m r\u1ed9, v\u00e0 h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft t\u1ea5t c\u1ea3 \u0111\u1ec1u l\u00e0 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef.<\/p>\n Jeanne Paquin \u0111\u00e3 s\u00e1ng l\u1eadp th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u c\u1ee7a ri\u00eang m\u00ecnh \u1edf Paris v\u00e0o n\u0103m 1890. Sau \u0111\u00f3, gi\u1edbi th\u1eddi trang xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n c\u00e1i t\u00ean Madeleine Vionnet c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 t\u00ean tu\u1ed5i t\u00e0i hoa kh\u00e1c nh\u01b0\u00a0 Gabrielle Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli v\u00e0 Jeanne Lanvin. \u0110\u00f3 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 ho\u00e0ng kim cho c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf th\u1eddi trang n\u1eef.<\/p>\n M\u1ecdi th\u1ee9 l\u1ea1i thay \u0111\u1ed5i sau hai cu\u1ed9c chi\u1ebfn tranh th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi. S\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i trong \u00fd th\u1ee9c h\u1ec7 k\u00e9o theo s\u1ef1 m\u1ea5t c\u00e2n b\u1eb1ng trong c\u00e1n c\u00e2n b\u00ecnh quy\u1ec1n gi\u1eefa nam v\u00e0 n\u1eef. Vi\u1ec7c \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf trang ph\u1ee5c cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef tr\u1edf n\u00ean ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i ch\u1ea5p nh\u1eadn v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ebfn gi\u1eefa nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1950, m\u1ed9t lo\u1ea1t c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf nam tr\u1ebb tu\u1ed5i xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n, mong mu\u1ed1n t\u1ea1o d\u1ea5u \u1ea5n c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi th\u1eddi trang n\u1eef. \u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 giai \u0111o\u1ea1n l\u00e0ng th\u1eddi trang ch\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3n nh\u1eefng thi\u00ean t\u00e0i l\u1eebng danh nh\u01b0 Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy v\u00e0 Crist\u00f3bal Balenciaga v\u1edbi khao kh\u00e1t t\u1ea1o n\u00ean h\u00ecnh m\u1eabu ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mang t\u00ednh bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng h\u01a1n l\u00e0 c\u00e1c trang ph\u1ee5c c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 \u1ee9ng d\u1ee5ng cao.<\/p>\n Thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u00e1o thun v\u1edbi h\u00e0ng ch\u1eef “We should all be feminist” (t\u1ea1m d\u1ecbch: N\u1eef quy\u1ec1n d\u00e0nh cho m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi) \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t Dior gi\u1edbi thi\u1ec7u v\u00e0o BST Xu\u00e2n H\u00e8 2017<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n C\u00f3 v\u1ebb nh\u01b0 c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u1eef v\u1eabn \u00edt c\u00f3 kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c xem l\u00e0 ng\u01b0\u1eddi ti\u00ean phong trong ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p so v\u1edbi c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed3ng nghi\u1ec7p nam. Trong m\u1ed9t ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p m\u00e0 s\u1ef1 \u0111\u1ed5i m\u1edbi l\u00e0 y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 t\u1ed1i quan tr\u1ecdng, c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u \u0111ang t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng nh\u01b0 JW Anderson hay Alessandro Michele, nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ebfn v\u1edbi kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng x\u00e1c \u0111\u1ecbnh l\u1ea1i \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u01b0\u1edbng th\u1ea9m m\u1ef9 c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u.<\/p>\n C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u1eef th\u01b0\u1eddng b\u1ecb quy ch\u1ee5p r\u1eb1ng kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf h\u01a1n nam gi\u1edbi; \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi c\u00e1c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01a1n gi\u1ea3n v\u00e0 \u00edt s\u1ef1 s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o. Song \u0111i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n sai l\u1ea7m b\u1edfi kh\u00f4ng \u00edt nh\u1eefng n\u1eef nh\u00e2n nh\u01b0\u00a0Mary Katrantzou, Sarah Burton ho\u1eb7c c\u1eb7p ch\u1ecb em Mulleavy (nh\u00e0 Rodarte), Phoebe Philo (c\u1ef1u gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o nh\u00e0 C\u00e9line) \u0111\u00e3 v\u00e0 \u0111ang l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ecbnh h\u00ecnh phong c\u00e1ch v\u00e0 xu h\u01b0\u1edbng th\u1eddi trang c\u1ee7a t\u1eebng m\u00f9a v\u1edbi c\u00e1c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf \u0111\u1ed9c \u0111\u00e1o, \u0111\u1ea7y s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o.<\/p>\n M\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng r\u00e0o c\u1ea3n khi\u1ebfn n\u1eef gi\u1edbi th\u01b0\u1eddng kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u1ecdng d\u1ee5ng l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 kh\u1ed1c li\u1ec7t v\u00e0 \u00e1p l\u1ef1c c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c c\u1ee7a ng\u00e0nh thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf th\u1eddi trang. C\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf nam gi\u1edbi nh\u01b0 Alber Elbaz ho\u1eb7c Raf Simons t\u1eebng than th\u1edf kh\u00f4ng \u00edt tr\u00ean c\u00e1c k\u00eanh truy\u1ec1n th\u00f4ng r\u1eb1ng c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c can thi\u1ec7p qu\u00e1 nhi\u1ec1u v\u00e0o cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd; trong khi \u0111\u00f3 \u0111a ph\u1ea7n n\u1eef gi\u1edbi ngo\u00e0i c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c, h\u1ecd c\u00f2n g\u00e1nh v\u00e1c thi\u00ean ch\u1ee9c l\u00e0m m\u1eb9 v\u00e0 ch\u0103m s\u00f3c gia \u0111\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh.<\/p>\n M\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 nghi\u1ec7p th\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng trong ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p th\u1eddi trang th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111i \u0111\u00f4i v\u1edbi kh\u00f4ng \u00edt kh\u00f3 kh\u0103n v\u00e0 \u00e1p l\u1ef1c, khi\u1ebfn ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u01b0a ra quy\u1ebft \u0111\u1ecbnh ch\u1ecdn l\u1ef1a m\u1ed9t trong hai c\u00e1n c\u00e2n \u2013 nh\u1ea5t l\u00e0 khi h\u1ea7u h\u1ebft c\u00e1c gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ed5 nhi\u1ec7m khi \u1edf tu\u1ed5i \u0111\u1eddi 35-45.\u00a0Nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Philo l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t v\u00ed d\u1ee5 hi\u1ebfm hoi c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u00e2n b\u1eb1ng gi\u1eefa th\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng gia \u0111\u00ecnh v\u00e0 th\u1eddi trang. C\u00f4 \u0111\u00e3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u00e0 C\u00e9line h\u1ed7 tr\u1ee3 v\u00e0 chuy\u1ec3n x\u01b0\u1edfng s\u1ea3n xu\u1ea5t t\u1eeb Paris \u0111\u1ebfn London; \u0111\u1ed3ng th\u1eddi C\u00e9line c\u00f2n h\u1ee7y b\u1ecf show di\u1ec5n m\u00f9a Thu \/ \u0110\u00f4ng 2012 khi c\u00f4 mang thai.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n “Ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef n\u1eafm gi\u1eef vai tr\u00f2 gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 thi\u1ec3u s\u1ed1”, nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Julie de Libran cho bi\u1ebft. “Ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p th\u1eddi trang v\u00f4 c\u00f9ng kh\u1eaft khe v\u00e0 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef v\u1eabn th\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ea3i l\u1ef1a ch\u1ecdn gi\u1eefa cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng gia \u0111\u00ecnh v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 nghi\u1ec7p. H\u1ecd lu\u00f4n kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 h\u1ed7 tr\u1ee3 \u0111\u1ec3 th\u0103ng ti\u1ebfn trong s\u1ef1 nghi\u1ec7p \u2013 \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u00f3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh ng\u0103n tr\u1edf kh\u00f3 tr\u00e1nh kh\u1ecfi khi\u1ebfn n\u1eef gi\u1edbi th\u01b0\u1eddng ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ea5u tranh gi\u1eefa vai tr\u00f2 trong x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i v\u00e0 vai tr\u00f2 trong gia \u0111\u00ecnh. \u0110\u00e0n \u00f4ng l\u1ea1i ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb nh\u1eefng g\u00e1nh n\u1eb7ng \u0111\u00f3 \u0111\u00e8 n\u00e9n \u2013 s\u1ef1 nghi\u1ec7p\u00a0 m\u1edbi l\u00e0 th\u01b0\u1edbc \u0111o th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 gi\u00e1 tr\u1ecb c\u1ee7a m\u1ed9t ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng”.<\/p>\n Nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Bouchra Jarrar b\u1ecb sa th\u1ea3i ch\u1ec9 trong m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi gian ng\u1eafn n\u1eafm gi\u1eef v\u1ecb tr\u00ed Gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 Lanvin<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n G\u00e1nh n\u1eb7ng n\u00e0y s\u1ebd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c tr\u00fat b\u1ecf kh\u00e1 nhi\u1ec1u khi ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef l\u00e0 gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u danh ti\u1ebfng, v\u1edbi kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng x\u00e2y d\u1ef1ng c\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed9i c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c theo l\u1ecbch tr\u00ecnh c\u1ee7a h\u1ecd. Tuy nhi\u00ean, \u0111\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ea1t \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u00f3 \u0111\u00f2i h\u1ecfi kh\u00f4ng \u00edt s\u1ef1 n\u1ed7 l\u1ef1c v\u00e0 may m\u1eafn.<\/p>\n “Sinh tr\u01b0\u1edfng trong gia \u0111\u00ecnh c\u00f9ng ba ng\u01b0\u1eddi anh trai, t\u00f4i kh\u00f4ng bao gi\u1edd nh\u1eadn th\u1ea5y c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 kh\u00e1c bi\u1ec7t qu\u00e1 l\u1edbn gi\u1eefa nam v\u00e0 n\u1eef”, nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Tory Burch chia s\u1ebb trong m\u1ed9t b\u00e0i ph\u1ecfng v\u1ea5n v\u1edbi t\u1edd The New York Times. “T\u00f4i t\u1eebng nh\u1eadn ph\u1ea3i v\u00e0i \u0111\u1ecbnh ki\u1ebfn khi th\u00e0nh l\u1eadp c\u00f4ng ty, v\u00e0 t\u00f4i \u0111\u00e3 c\u1ea3m nh\u1eadn \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1ef1 k\u1ef3 th\u1ecb ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef trong ng\u00e0nh n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e1ng s\u1ee3 nh\u01b0 th\u1ebf n\u00e0o. Khi t\u00f4i k\u00eau g\u1ecdi c\u00e1c m\u1ea1nh th\u01b0\u1eddng qu\u00e2n \u0111\u1ec3 huy \u0111\u1ed9ng v\u1ed1n, kh\u00f4ng \u00edt ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e3 d\u00e8m pha, th\u1eadm ch\u00ed nh\u1ee5c m\u1ea1 t\u00f4i. Nh\u1eefng \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u00f3 khi\u1ebfn t\u00f4i th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 th\u1ea5m th\u00eda \u00e1p l\u1ef1c m\u00e0 c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u1eef ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ed1i m\u1eb7t trong ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p th\u1eddi trang”.<\/p>\n C\u00f3 m\u1ed9t th\u1ef1c t\u1ebf cho th\u1ea5y, c\u00e1c b\u1ed9 s\u01b0u t\u1eadp c\u1ee7a Maria Grazia Chiuri kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 cao nh\u01b0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a Dior d\u01b0\u1edbi th\u1eddi Raf Simons v\u00e0 John Galliano. Nhi\u1ec1u ng\u01b0\u1eddi cho r\u1eb1ng c\u00e1c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf c\u1ee7a b\u00e0 qu\u00e1 n\u1eef t\u00ednh, thi\u1ebfu s\u1ef1 m\u1edbi l\u1ea1 v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed9t ph\u00e1<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n \u1ede c\u00e1c qu\u1ed1c gia \u00c1 Ch\u00e2u, ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef c\u0169ng lu\u00f4n b\u1ecb \u0111\u00e1nh gi\u00e1 th\u1ea5p n\u0103ng l\u1ef1c kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 ri\u00eang trong l\u0129nh v\u1ef1c th\u1eddi trang. Hi\u1ec7n nay, nhi\u1ec1u th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u\u00a0nh\u01b0 Ermenegasy Zegna v\u00e0 Dunhill, kh\u00e1ch h\u00e0ng Ch\u00e2u \u00c1 \u0111a ph\u1ea7n l\u00e0 \u0111\u00e0n \u00f4ng. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o n\u00ean tr\u00e0o l\u01b0u c\u00e1c sinh vi\u00ean nam gi\u1edbi theo h\u1ecdc t\u1ea1i c\u00e1c tr\u01b0\u1eddng thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf ch\u1ecdn l\u1ef1a m\u1ea3nh \u0111\u1ea5t th\u1eddi trang nam l\u00e0 n\u01a1i “d\u1ee5ng v\u00f5”; k\u00e9o theo t\u1ec9 l\u1ec7 nh\u00e2n s\u1ef1 nam gi\u1edbi ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng chi\u1ebfm \u01b0u th\u1ebf t\u1ea1i nh\u1eefng th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u t\u1ea1i \u00c2u Ch\u00e2u.<\/p>\n Masha Ma, m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf g\u1ed1c Hoa c\u00f3 tr\u1ee5 s\u1edf gi\u1eefa Th\u01b0\u1ee3ng H\u1ea3i v\u00e0 Paris, cho bi\u1ebft c\u00f4 ch\u01b0a t\u1eebng bao gi\u1edd b\u1ecb k\u1ef3 th\u1ecb gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh t\u1ea1i \u00c1 hay \u00c2u Ch\u00e2u. “B\u1ea1n bi\u1ebft \u0111\u1ea5y, lu\u00f4n c\u00f3 kh\u00f4ng \u00edt th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c \u0111\u1eb7t ra cho c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u1eef trong ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p n\u00e0y. Song, t\u00f4i ph\u1ea3i th\u1eeba nh\u1eadn r\u1eb1ng c\u00e0ng nhi\u1ec1u y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 ngo\u1ea1i vi t\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ebfn s\u1ef1 nghi\u1ec7p, b\u1ea1n l\u1ea1i c\u00e0ng c\u1ea7n ph\u1ea3i thay \u0111\u1ed5i. Th\u1eddi trang l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n li\u00ean t\u1ee5c, \u0111\u1eb7c bi\u1ec7t khi th\u1ecb tr\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1eddi trang n\u1ed9i \u0111\u1ecba \u0111ang ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n.N\u1ebfu b\u1ea1n ch\u1ecdn b\u01b0\u1edbc ch\u00e2n v\u00e0o l\u0129nh v\u1ef1c n\u00e0y, b\u1ea1n c\u1ea7n duy tr\u00ec ni\u1ec1m tin v\u1eefng ch\u1eafc v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng n\u1ed7 l\u1ef1c kh\u00f4ng ng\u1eebng ngh\u1ec9.”\b<\/p>\n T\u00e2n gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 m\u1ed1t Chanel, Virginie Viard \u2013 \u1ea9n s\u1ed1 c\u1ee7a l\u00e0ng th\u1eddi trang th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n Theo nh\u00e0 nghi\u00ean c\u1ee9u v\u00e0 ph\u00ea b\u00ecnh th\u1eddi trang E P Cutler, \u00f4ng nh\u1eadn \u0111\u1ecbnh vi\u1ec7c b\u1ed5 nhi\u1ec7m hai nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u1eef \u1edf v\u1ecb tr\u00ed Gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u1ee7a th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u Christian Dior v\u00e0 Givenchy \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o n\u00ean kh\u00f4ng \u00edt t\u00e1c \u0111\u1ed9ng \u0111\u1ebfn to\u00e0n ng\u00e0nh th\u1eddi trang. “Bernard Arnault, Gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c \u0111i\u1ec1u h\u00e0nh c\u1ee7a LVMH, hi\u1ec7n \u0111ang s\u1edf h\u1eefu m\u1ea3ng th\u1eddi trang cao c\u1ea5p c\u1ee7a Christian Dior v\u00e0 Givenchy, l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t trong nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u00f3 \u0111\u1ea7u \u00f3c kinh doanh xu\u1ea5t s\u1eafc nh\u1ea5t. C\u00f4ng ch\u00fang \u0111\u00e3 r\u1ea5t ph\u1ea5n kh\u00edch v\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c truy\u1ec1n c\u1ea3m h\u1ee9ng khi nh\u1eefng ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh ng\u01b0\u1eddi c\u1ea7m l\u00e1i t\u1ea1i c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u th\u1eddi trang l\u1edbn, \u0111i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng t\u00edch c\u1ef1c \u0111\u1ebfn doanh thu c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u. Ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef m\u1edbi th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec3u v\u00e0 bi\u1ebft r\u00f5 nh\u1eefng g\u00ec ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef mong mu\u1ed1n trong t\u1ee7 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o. \u0110i\u1ec1u g\u00ec t\u1ed1t cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef, \u0111\u1ed3ng ngh\u0129a \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u00f3 t\u1ed1t cho c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c kinh doanh”.<\/p>\n Tuy nhi\u00ean c\u0169ng c\u00f3 \u00fd ki\u1ebfn tr\u00e1i chi\u1ec1u cho r\u1eb1ng, vi\u1ec7c b\u1ed5 nhi\u1ec7m c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf n\u1eef t\u1ea1i nh\u1eefng th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u l\u1edbn l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t bi\u1ec7n ph\u00e1p “c\u1ea7m h\u01a1i” c\u1ee7a c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 kinh doanh; khi b\u1ed1i c\u1ea3nh c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u \u0111\u00e3 v\u00e0 \u0111ang tr\u1ea3i qua giai \u0111o\u1ea1n kh\u00f3 kh\u0103n. \u0110i\u1ec1u n\u00e0y gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch cho vi\u1ec7c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Bouchra Jarrar b\u1ecb sa th\u1ea3i ch\u1ec9 trong m\u1ed9t th\u1eddi gian ng\u1eafn n\u1eafm gi\u1eef v\u1ecb tr\u00ed Gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o c\u1ee7a nh\u00e0 Lanvin.<\/p>\n Tr\u01b0\u1edbc s\u1ef1 h\u1ed7n lo\u1ea1n c\u1ee7a ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p th\u1eddi trang ng\u00e0y nay, n\u01a1i c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u \u0111\u1ec1u ph\u1ea3i ch\u1ed1ng ch\u1ecdi v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 c\u1ea1nh tranh, v\u1edbi c\u00e1c m\u00f4 h\u00ecnh kinh doanh b\u1ecb ph\u00e1 v\u1ee1 b\u1edfi k\u1ef9 thu\u1eadt s\u1ed1 h\u00f3a v\u00e0 tr\u00e0o l\u01b0u see now, buy now; ch\u01b0a k\u1ec3 \u0111\u1ebfn vi\u1ec7c n\u1ec1n kinh t\u1ebf \u1edf nhi\u1ec1u n\u01a1i tr\u00ean th\u1ebf gi\u1edbi v\u1eabn c\u00f3 d\u1ea5u hi\u1ec7u kh\u1ee7ng ho\u1ea3ng, kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng kh\u00f4ng mong mu\u1ed1n l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi nh\u01b0 Chiuri v\u00e0 Waight Keller gi\u1ed1ng nh\u01b0 nh\u1eefng “v\u1eadt th\u00ed nghi\u1ec7m” h\u01a1n l\u00e0 nh\u1eefng nh\u00e0 c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng n\u1eef quy\u1ec1n.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n Vai tr\u00f2 Gi\u00e1m \u0111\u1ed1c s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o t\u1ea1i c\u00e1c th\u01b0\u01a1ng hi\u1ec7u th\u1eddi trang l\u1edbn kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 g\u00e2y \u00e1p l\u1ef1c v\u1edbi c\u00e1c nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf nam, m\u00e0 \u0111\u1ed1i v\u1edbi n\u1eef gi\u1edbi, c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c n\u00e0y c\u00f2n kh\u00f3 kh\u0103n g\u1ea5p b\u1ed9i khi h\u1ecd ph\u1ea3i c\u00e2n b\u1eb1ng gi\u1eefa cu\u1ed9c s\u1ed1ng c\u00e1 nh\u00e2n \u2013 c\u00f4ng vi\u1ec7c c\u00f9ng s\u1ef1 k\u1ef3 th\u1ecb gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh trong ng\u00e0nh c\u00f4ng nghi\u1ec7p th\u1eddi trang<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":136,"featured_media":2488213,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[22],"tags":[54449,135,752,52220,61044,70575,75792,124286],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n![\"The](\"https:\/\/www.thenational.ae\/image\/policy:1.608949:1500109696\/dior110478-jpg.jpg?f=4x3&q=1.0&w=1024&$p$f$q$w=2d7a7ad\")
![\"Bouchra](\"https:\/\/www.thenational.ae\/image\/policy:1.608930:1500103072\/wk14-fashion-female-creative-directors-pic.jpg?f=16x9&w=1200&$p$f$w=f216207\")
![\"K\u00e1\u00ba\u00bft](\"https:\/\/lesfacons.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/CHRISTIAN-DIOR-FALL-2018-HAUTE-COUTURE-COLLECTION.jpg\")
![\"K\u00e1\u00ba\u00bft](\"https:\/\/i.f1g.fr\/media\/madame\/1900x1900_crop\/sites\/default\/files\/img\/2017\/11\/anna-mouglalis-et-virginie-viard.jpg\")